Winter in Provence

From the dry countryside to the Black truffle market …this is Provence in February !

As hard as it is to imagine Provence to be cold when you are visiting in the hot summer months, I can tell you that indeed it can get really cold ! The light is low , there is no leaves on trees , the landscape is in shades of grey-brown , there is frost in the morning , snow close by and pictures of a sunny day do not make you feel the burn of the Mistral blowing at 60 miles/hours on a 28F morning. It is not the colorful Provence postcard people dream to visit but just as real.  

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Today is not too bad , somewhere in the 40 F . With thermal leggings and  t-shirt , 2 sweaters and a well heated car , I can handle it ! The top of the Mont Ventoux is  hidden by a hat of clouds meaning that it will rain tomorrow…

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Vaison la Romaine and the Roman bridge that survived the massive 1992 flash flood when all other modern structures down stream were taken away leaving only foundations from many houses and a whole supermarket ! We were there that day ….rain was so hard we thought the roof was going to blow away , so much water coming down our chimney , it was flooding our living room but in the end we were safe and our old house made it through …while many died and hundred of bridges collapsed cutting us off from many routes for months . 27750760_10203737612517680_5117080481834565173_n.jpg

People back then knew better and built their houses way up above the river.27657539_10203737612757686_5949325789729599305_n.jpgVineyards are all trimmed back …It is an ongoing process that take most of the fall and winter months ; very hard work in this harsh weather .

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Les Gorges du Toulourenc at the bottom north of the Mt Ventoux are wonderful in summer .You can bath in the river and cool off when temperatures reach 95F …in winter the romantic village of Brantes remains beautiful with the snow in the back drop . The cafe terrasse is waiting for spring and visitors to start coming again …27858321_10203737609717610_1950962916205174475_n.jpg

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Today is an other story : 28F this morning and the wind is blowing at 60miles/hour . Not a day to put your nose out but I have to go to the market… At first it looks just like a winter farmers market….but soon you realize it is no regular market….it is the black truffles market held here in quaint Richerenche village from November through March….and February is peak season ! IMG_9255 (Large).JPG

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Special baby truffle oak trees for sale . Then all you need is a good truffle dog

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Most everything is truffle related and even the food truck sells truffle omelets ! 

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1200euros/kilo that’s about $700/pound….people were buying a small truffle for $70 ….27751952_10203734622402929_5240726031905201313_n.jpg

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You have the street for regular shoppers or “tourists ” and then the one where the real deals happen at the back of a truck ….dealers buy from farmers and negotiate with their big wholesale accounts….

 

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And there it is …black gold , the beloved “Rabasse” ( the name in Provencal dialect for truffles) , bags of them !

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My mum use to have a dog and truffle oak trees . I grew up with the intoxicating smell of the tiniest truffle…Even in a Tupperware…the whole house was smelling …there was no hiding you had found some black gold ….nowadays they do not come even close to what I knew ;  i find these truffles pretty tasteless in comparison…Even with my nose on it , all i smell is earth , dirt and a faint truffle aroma but still there is something special about this mushroom…

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The village restaurant sure serve some truffle dishes !27867088_10203734626643035_7412392283844714471_n.jpg

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With this weather , you have to eat something that stick to your ribs ! My favorite is a platter of “Quenelles de Lyon in a Nantua sauce / crawfish sauce”27332491_10203731826573035_3190423110314237772_n.jpg

Also the time of year to cook some orange jam , quince paste ….

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And  bien sur ….eat some crepes !

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I also discovered the French version of sushi . Here we have California rolls with avocado and crab meat …the French who have to put Foie gras everywhere have managed to do foie gras sushis with fig jam , rolls of Seabass tartare with grapefruit , Salmon with mango and rose petals, beef carpacio with arugula and pesto…adapting this fashion phenomenon to French taste buds !

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A last stop before to fly home . Even the French Riviera is pretty bare .

These rose fields are grown specially for Chanel #5 perfume …we are just a few kilometers from Grasse , the capital of perfume making !

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The mimosa is in full bloom everywhere , hills covered , sides of the freeways , growing wild and making the countryside smells like heaven in the dead of winter ! Brings sunshine to your home but unfortunately only last 1 day in a vase

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The town plaza of Valbonne is buzzing with people enjoying lunch even on a cool day

IMG_9166 (Large).JPGJust out of a magazine …my architect friend’s home is a dream

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I wish it was summer ….

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The best thing about February is that you can find Crepe Pans everywhere !

I sure did and shipped a bunch that will be available at the shop along with our magic crepe batter shakers !A new Crepe demonstration/tasting will be coming up very soon ! Stay tuned on Facebook , email or call us to find out date !

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Making some Crepes flambees for breakfast !

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Best crepes ever ! I think it is the La Cornue stove …I need one of those too !

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